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Top: Safety chains need to be sturdy and should be crossed over to form a sling.
Above: Check out the winch strap… a claim waiting to happen.
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You also need to be aware of the total width of the boat/trailer and make allowances for it when approaching a gap. One of our most common claims scenarios involves people passing other vehicles on the left-hand side, as when approaching a right-turning vehicle from behind. If you’re in a rural area, chances are the verge is dirt or gravel and likely tapering away from the road. If you’re travelling at normal open road speeds, chances of something going wrong multiply significantly. The dynamic relationship between a trailer and car is not the most stable, so when a variable is introduced, like running the trailer wheels off the road and down a slight incline, you’ve got a recipe for disaster. The trailer begins to slew off the road on the dirt, pulling the rear of the car with it. Where the whole rig ends up when it finally comes to a halt is now mostly beyond the control of the driver. It’s likely our claims line will ring soon after.
So, if you are faced with having to run close to, or over the edge the bitumen, do it at a sensible speed. Slower is definitely better in this scenario.
KNOW YOUR TRAILER
You should be fairly well-acquainted with your trailer and its equipment, but you also need to know the towing capabilities of your tow vehicle. Your particular vehicle’s towing rating (as in weight) should be listed in the vehicle handbook, however, you should contact the manufacturer if you’re not sure of your vehicle’s towing capabilities.
Each state and territory has differing regulations governing towing and it’s the responsibility of owners to ensure that your rig complies completely with local regulations. These regulations can be readily sourced on-line or through your local police station or road authorities. Invariably, they will stipulate various towing weights and widths and include requirements for various kinds of braking set-ups according to weight. You need to make yourself familiar with all relevant regulations and, importantly if you’re taking your boat interstate, you need to make sure you comply with that state’s regs. Fines can result and ignorance is no defence.
But having a tow vehicle which is legally capable of towing your boat and trailer is only the first step. You also need to consider the weight distribution of the boat and trailer and here the set-up should be such that approximately 60 per cent of the boat’s weight should be positioned on the front half of the trailer and forty on the rear, bearing in mind, of course, the limits of your towbar’s weight capacity.
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Top: Corroded brake discs are a common fault.
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Circumstances which can affect this include how you have loaded your vessel. A few scuba tanks and weight-belts or some heavy game fishing rods, reels and tackle boxes, along with a couple of heavily-packed iceboxes, can significantly alter weight distribution, as can fitting a heavier outboard than when the rig was first set up. Another variable can be if the boat’s fuel tank has been replaced with a larger unit. Often these two things go together, with multiplying results.
A poorly set-up trailer, where the craft is positioned too far to the rear, is not uncommon and is relatively easy to fix by shifting the winch post forward until the desired weight balance is achieved. Some modifications to the position of the trailer rollers may also be required, but a correctly-balanced rig should be easily achievable. It cannot be too highly stressed just how important this balance is to safe towing, as a rig with the weight too far back is prone to weaving from side to side at highway towing speeds or in a cross wind, with resulting scary-to-disastrous consequences.
As well as front-to-back, weight distribution when loading your craft, you should also consider side-to-side load distribution. Some vessels have side-mounted fuel and or water tanks and these should be filled in such a way so as to create a balanced load. A further factor to consider is the centre of gravity of the boat and trailer, which should be kept as low as possible by storing equipment at floor level and forward, wherever possible. For example, those scuba tanks should go in the cabin and on the floor between the bunks and never on the rear bench seat. Keeping the entire rig balanced not only immeasurably improves towing safety, but will also prolong the life of your trailer’s tyres.
All states have a legal requirement for safety chains, which must be strong enough to prevent your boat trailer hitting the ground should the trailer become detached from the tow ball. A short stroll around any boat ramp will reveal that many rigs either have undersized chains for their loads or only one chain, where there should, ideally, be two. Check your own rig and, if in doubt, buy some more robust chain and have it fitted. A further tip is to cross the chains over each other to form a sling, which will be more effective in supporting your unattached tow hitch. The chains should be long enough to allow turning, but not so long that they drag on the ground.
RUSTY ROTORS
Trailer maintenance is the third component of safer towing. It may be the bugbear of recreational boaters, but, as any casual stroll around a boat ramp will reveal, it is an area that demands much more attention from many boat owners. Trailer brakes are an example. Rusting brake rotors are not uncommon and indicate that brakes are either not working, or need urgent maintenance and adjustment. Where water restrictions are not in force, your trailer’s brakes should be flushed with fresh water, especially if you spend time on saltwater. Where hose-down facilities are available at the ramp, this should be done immediately after launching your craft. Alternatively, you can take a plastic jerry can of water from home and pour it over your brakes. This simple exercise will go a long way towards keeping brakes functioning. Naturally, it should be repeated after retrieval, preferably at the ramp to begin with and then at home. Brakes should also be adjusted regularly to ensure they work properly when needed.
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Top: On a string and a prayer… some car park sights defy description.
Middle:Special attention needs to be paid to wheel bearings.
Above: Allowing rust to get to this stage is asking for trouble.
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Winch cables and straps are other items which commonly seem to be neglected, as evidenced by that tell-tale stroll around a boat ramp. Any problems here have the potential to result in severe personal injury in the event of the cable or strap breaking, or the craft coming loose on the trailer whilst being towed. Ideally, the safety chain between the winch post and the bow eye should be equipped with a turnbuckle in order to keep the chain in tension. Safety chains with too much slack have a much greater chance of failing if the winch lock or winch cable fails whilst travelling.
Trailer leaf springs should also be hosed thoroughly when washing down the rig and spraying on some fish oil or water dispersant spray can help reduce rusting of the leaves and thus extend spring and shackle life. Rollers, likewise, should be washed thoroughly and checked from time to time for movement or looseness.
Trailer tyre pressures and tread depth should be vigilantly maintained and wheel bearings need special attention on a regular basis. At the start of the boating season is a good idea if you live in the southern states. As far as the bearings go, various proprietary devices are available to keep grease within the hubs by means of spring pressure, which reduces water ingress when the hubs are dipped during launching and retrieving. These do have a demonstrated level of effectiveness, provided the grease – which should be marine-grade – is regularly replenished as it works its way out past the inner seals.
Tyres need special attention as their condition has a huge effect on your rig’s behaviour on the road. The tyres need to be the right specification for your trailer. They also need to be run at the right pressure and should have adequate tread depth to deal with wet weather towing. You should regularly check tyres for wear and any damage to the sidewalls and, if you’ve bought your rig secondhand, check to make sure your tyres haven’t been retreaded. It’s not uncommon for older trailers to sport cheaper retread tyres – an unnecessary compromise and risk in this day and age.
Another oft-overlooked aspect of trailering is ensuring that all lighting is working. Common sense should apply here, but far too often doesn’t. This is another issue that shows up in our claims data, with many incidents of boats and trailers being ‘rear-ended’ at night due to non- or malfunctioning trailer lights. People behind you need to know you’re there and which way you’re going to turn. Without lights, they’re in the dark. Literally.
ONROAD CHECKS
Safe towing also means checking your rig during the journey and ideally this should be done around every 100km or so. You should pull over into a protected roadside area, well away from passing traffic, and do a spot check on the trailer coupling (these can sometimes work loose), safety chains, electrical connections and tyres. Checking your hubs for excessive heat is also advisable, but be aware that a failing wheel bearing or dragging brake can generate a lot of heat, so check them cautiously. Remember, too, that the consequences of catastrophic wheel bearing failure are magnified considerably in the case of single-axle trailers, where a failed bearing can cause a wheel to come off and lead to the boat and trailer being seriously damaged or destroyed.
Carrying a set of spare wheel bearings – and the tools to fit them – is highly recommended. The tools should include a sturdy hydraulic jack with enough capacity to lift your laden boat and trailer, a strong jack stand to add support and a pair of wheel chocks to prevent any movement of the raised rig. Extra marine grease should be a part of your trailer tool kit, too.
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