Port Stephens NSW

You see it in the faces of the world-weary travellers the moment they arrive at the bluewater paradise known as Port Stephens, stress levels dissolving like a Berocca as these big-smoke folk unpack both their beach wear and their worries. 

The picturesque NSW waterway is so close to Sydney, yet so far removed in peacefulness and pace of life. The shopping mall is alive with happy chatter, and there’s more joy in the air at nearby d’Albora Marina Nelson Bay, where tours depart and some of the best cafes and bars reside.

Accommodation options abound, from 4-star resorts - Bannisters Port Stephens, The Anchorage and Shoal Bay’s Ramada Resort by Wyndham - to rental properties and caravan parks. There is also a wealth of dining options and visitor activities.

Despite this, Port Stephens remains something of a well-kept secret - has done, really, since Cook sailed by in May 1770. It took 21 years for another vessel, the Third Fleet convict ship Salamander, to bother entering.

A surveyor in 1795 opined there was nothing to warrant a second visit, but convicts fleeing from Sydney disagreed, and that outpouring from NSW’s capital continues apace.

The waterway is 2½ times the size of Sydney Harbour and home to the state’s biggest marine park. A 1km-wide channel between Soldiers Point and Pindimar forms a natural divide – seawards, the beaches are sandy, to the west they’re mostly rock, mud and mangrove.

Much of the surrounding land is designated as either a national park, nature reserve or conservation area. Fishing sanctuaries are similarly widespread, courtesy of the marine park classification. The bay is also one of the most popular places in the world for dolphin watching.

The best way to navigate Port Stephens is by boat, and there’s no shortage of boating facilities. To begin with, there are 18 ramps of varying quality, servicing a shoreline spreading from Karuah and Tanilba Bay to Shoal Bay and Tea Gardens.

The best public ramp is at Soldiers Point, which is well protected and has twin finger pontoons and a fish-cleaning bench. Little Beach and Shoal Bay ramps are closer to the Heads but more wind-exposed and also prone to sand build-up.

On the northern side, the main boat ramp at Tea Gardens flanks the southern end of the Singing Bridge. Trailer sailer owners should note there’s 10.6m clearance under the bridge at high water, and river depths can be less than 1.5m.

For visiting yacht and cruiser owners, d’Albora Marina Nelson Bay offers almost 200 wet berths, 24/7 fuel and a full-service shipyard. The region is also well served by The Anchorage Marina at Corlette and Soldiers Point Marina.

It’s normally easy to secure a casual berth but the House Full sign is displayed during peak holiday and event periods, most notably the gamefishing tournaments in February and Sail Port Stephens regatta period in April-May. 

It’s easy to lose yourself for a full seven days, such is the diversity and accessibility. First step would be to visit the Port Stephens Visitor Information Centre at 60 Victoria Parade, Nelson Bay.

Day 1 should ideally involve fishing because you’re almost guaranteed a feed. It would pay to try Nelson Bay breakwall for bream, Soldiers Point jetty for bluefin tuna and jews, Shoal Bay beach for flathead, Tomaree headland for snapper and more, and Broughton Island for virtually everything.

Deep-sea fishing charter operators can be found at Nelson Bay. Otherwise, consult bait and tackle shop owners and check the tide charts and, of course, marine zone signs.

Day 2, head to the Myall River entrance. A little over two hours upstream, with 4-knot zones abounding, are the freshwater Myall Lakes and the white sands of Shelly Beach.

A national park, it is untainted by development and largely uncluttered by boats. You can feel the tranquillity as you swim, ski and paddle to your heart’s content.

Coffee and snacks are available at the NRMA-owned Myall Shores Holiday Park nestled between the Broadwater and Boolambayte Lake, part of the Myall system. Take spare petrol in the absence of refuelling stations. 

Launch the boat again on Day 3, because no Port Stephens highlight reel is complete without a visit to Jimmys Beach, Fingal Spit or Broughton Island.

Jimmys forms the western side of a sand spit connecting Yacaaba with the town of Hawks Nest, shielding the summer seabreeze. Alternatively, head out through the Heads, turn south, and run past Zenith, Box and Wreck beaches to Fingal Spit, where the view back to Port Stephens is reminiscent of Hawaii.

Likewise, Broughton Island offers a special experience for those with boats capable of transiting the 9nm (16.67km) from the relative safety of Port Stephens. Within Esmeralda Cove are sandy beaches and ideal diving and snorkelling waters. 

Port Stephens is also a foodie’s paradise, so Day 4 should be Dining Day. Starting with breakfast, The Little Nel café in Nelson Bay is a favourite for coffee and local produce. The Inner Light Tea Rooms above Little Beach serves brekkie from 8.30am to midday, and lunch from 8.30am to 2.30pm.

Tucked away at Lemon Tree Passage Marina is The Poyer’s, run by chef/owner Ludovic Poyer. Crest Birubi Beach, The Deck Café Soldiers Point and Tea Gardens pub are other lunch favourites. Dinner, meanwhile, would be a difficult choice between Rick Stein at Bannisters Port Stephens, Little Beach Boathouse, and The Galley Kitchen at The Anchorage.

Day 5 will see you walking off Day 4’s feed on the new Tomaree Coastal Walk from Biribu Point to the 161m apex of Tomaree mountain. It’s 27km overall, so most people do it in sections. See nswparks.info/TCW.

Tomaree is worth climbing for the views over the offshore islands and Jimmys Beach; the path is mostly paved or comprised of metal walkways. There’s also a little-known path around Corlette headland from The Anchorage Hotel to the swimming beach of Salamander Bay.

Day 6 is one for choosing your own tourism adventure, whether that’s taking a cruise or ferry ride, communing with wildlife at a koala sanctuary or shark and ray centre, riding a toboggan, go-karting, inspecting fighter jets, or visiting the Birubi sand dunes by 4WD, sandboard, quadbike or camelback.

You can take your own 4WD on to the dunes but will need a permit from worimiconservationlands.com/vehicle (or call the Visitor Centre on 1800 808 900). 

Visitor Information: portstephens.org.au

Marine Rescue: marinerescueportstephens.au

Marinas: dalbora.com.au/marinas/nelson-bay